Crush Time!

This happens every year, and it still catches me by surprise. Summer season may start at the end of June, but in reality it’s pretty slow until the end of July. Then, things switch into high gear suddenly. August whizzes in, leaving me with that “Where did July go?” sensation, and it’s a rollercoaster ride for a month and a half.

A guiding schedule that was bleak (to put it mildly) is now a hectic back-and-forth between Lake Placid and the Gunks, with occasional visits home. The driving and the nights away are rough. When I am home, there are dozens of things to catch up on (this blog being one of them), phone calls to make/take, planning for this year’s Southern Adirondack Rockclimbers’ Festival, chores to ignore do, and family to settle in with for a few moments.

I’m not complaining. Whining a little, perhaps. But overall, I’m a very blessed man. Wonderful wife, fantastic children. Great office.

And not all the busy things are business. Business-related, by sheer dint of me being a rockclimbing guide. It’s my job to scope out new areas, to try out new climbs, to explore strange new rock formations… Or at least my job is a weakly viable excuse for these things.

Progress continues on Crane
I sent my last project, Torcher, in the middle of July, with Jason Brechko. That route troubled me for a month; but somehow, I always seem to get inspired when Brechko shows up. Like Side Show, we managed squeaking that one in late in the day, with no time for anything else.

Jamie McNeill had the same outcome with his project, the line left of Parallel Passage. He sent it handily with Alysia and a Vermont friend cheering him on. Not sure of the name yet, but it’s probably 5.10b PG.

Michael Gray accompanied Mike Prince to the TeePee Wall and sent Todd’s erstwhile leftmost project, a 5.10a (5.9+?) line with a tricky pro placement at the crux. He dubbed it English Channel, because it lies west of Paris’ ongoing project (that right-slanting crack next door).

Tom Lane joined the FA antics by cleaning and sending the thin crack that joins a “trough” higher up, left of E-Stim on the Isobuttress. Lane Change goes at 5.10a. Attempts were made at the seam to its left, but aborted after much shredded skin and blood loss. There’s a project up for grabs. Anyone?

My new route searches are taking second fiddle to the SAdkRF. As are most things. Please keep checking the website for updates on that, as it’s an important, fun event for climbers in this area.

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