Todd Sends Project


It stood there alongside the BAW path for over a year: that enticing crack running up and slanting right, cleaned and ready. So long, in fact, the wall garnered a name – the TeePee Wall – from its state of affairs, a set of projects Todd meticulously cleaned, planning to send, before winter weather and life got in the way.

Yesterday, weather and schedules coincided. Despite the long spell of rain, Tom Lane, Todd, and I hiked out individually, met at the Black Arches Wall, then headed back to the TeePee Wall for a look. Tom’s project, one of Todd’s erstwhile lines, was streaming a thin veneer of slop down its lower half. That would have to wait for another day. But with his target route dry enough, Todd opted to take a stab.

After a little tomfoolery, dangling on variations of the route on TR, we pulled gear (directionals are needed for a TR, lest ropes get damaged. Don’t ask!), Todd racked up, Tom took over belay duties, and I headed up to play photographer.


Rest Stance above the crux of Peney for your Freedom

It took very little time, went smoothly, and in a few minutes was settled in stone. Tom tied in the middle and ascended, while I rappelled and waited my turn on rope’s end. We sat on top, cheering for the occasion and congratulating Todd, then went back down and spent an hour or so dangling once again on a ludicrously hard variation.

Todd named the route Peney for your Freedom, in memory of a fellow climber killed in Afghanistan this year. It goes at 5.8+ G, is 40′ tall, and rates 3 stars. Near its top, a short, vertical crack offers a direct finish that goes at 5.9+ TR, while to its left, between it and English Channel, is a line that weaves up the face, occasionally snitching holds from Peney, to finish up in the shallow scoop at the top at 5.11b TR.

Recommended – just be careful if you utilize a TR. The rock texture is like coarse sandpaper. It has already destroyed one rope from a poorly-constructed TR set-up.

Now, if only the weather would dry up enough for Tom to send that sadistic little crack line off the right end…

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