Busy Season Slam

So yeah, it has been awhile since my last post. Things have become a bit crazy, and I’m way behind right now. Here’s a quick update of what has been going on.

Sending Pump Action

Work at Tom’s secret crag continues, and finally we’ve made some real headway, sending, in fact, more than half of the projects we’ve begun there. Tom put it together and led Pump Action cleanly; at 5.10a PG, it’s a strenuous – well, pumpy – addition to the list, about 10′ left of Lever Action. Without hardly a pause, he moved over and led through that gorgeous overhanging dihedral. He did come close to a big whipper on the upper difficulties, but managed to back down to a rest stance and recompose before firing to the finish line. Winchester Dihedral is a four-star route, with a direct finish awaiting a rope gun with the power to send it. Can’t miss this line: it lies on the right edge of the huge roof system.

Working the wild stems of Winchester Dihedral.

 We’re not done – like that’s even possible – in particular, we’re working the face just to the right of Winchester Dihedral, which is another fantastic route, probably in the 5.10c range. 

Dan Sandberg fires Bozeman Bullet

A bit later, I met up with Dan Sandberg, manager of the Eastern Mountain Sports guide school in Lake Placid, for a short session at Deadwater Cliff. If you haven’t been there yet, put it on your tick list. One of the nicest 5.6’s in the state, Bozeman Bullet, is there. Dan led it, we TR’d several lines next door, then finished the day on the 5-star Tombstone, a not-to-be-missed 5.10a.

Heading up the first pitch of Recuperation Boulevard.

Finally, the first “official” EMS guided trip took place this week. I guided two teenagers out, first to the Measles Walls to get started, then on to the Isobuttress. We were able to TR a bunch at the MWs: Cracklosis, Scared for Life, Hamburger Face, and H1N1; then we climbed all of Recuperation Boulevard, using the by-now standard crossover to Carpenter & Das.

Nearing the top of Recuperation Boulevard.

Now I’m in Lake Placid, pulling a three-day stint of guiding here, and trying to catch up with things like the Southern Adirondack Rockclimbers’ Festival, and this’ere blog. Way too late and tired to make much progress, but at least there’s something here that’s new. Don’t forget that festival, though! We’re camping near Caroga Lake, and bustin’ out to a bunch of fantastic crags in the area, both new and classic. Hope to see you there.

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