Archive for December, 2011

Roughly Ready: Rock FAs 2011

Monday, December 19th, 2011

Climbers at Crane’s Amphitheatre, a place
that saw a lot of activity in 2011.

Forgot to mention this here, but on the “old-style” site, I’ve posted a very rough draft of 2011’s rock FAs. It’s a long list; I hope to post a chronological table to each day/climb soon. Don’t hold your breath.

Ice on Crane!

Monday, December 19th, 2011

Bottom pitches of the Waterfall Wall.
Note that the Tempest Variation is in pretty good shape already.

It’s official: Crane Mountain’s Ice Climbing Season has begun.
Went out today, climbed three pitches, came home. It is “no-screw doable”; you won’t find thick enough ice to place a screw. Used mountaineering crampons, which made it a bit more enthralling than I prefer (especially when one came loose), but the easy angle doesn’t require fancy boots and hard knocks. Did have to wander a bit to stay on satisfyingly thick ice. There’s a lot of water running behind it all, but the ice is pretty plastic and forgiving. Didn’t have any shell-collapses, very little plating. Had a lot of good one-click sticks.

Looking down the first pitch. I came up the rightmost streak in the center of the photo. 

Typical first-run quivers; with a guided trip coming up this Saturday, I needed an initiation to get those out of my system.
Not sure what the weather of the next few days is going to do to conditions. Daytime temps seem too high, but with cold temps every night, it may not make much difference up here.

Second pitch: very skinny start.