Back for More

Lukasz made it up late last night, looking to get some Crane Mountain climbing under his belt. We didn’t rush to get out the door in the morning: we needed a little extra sleep, and with temps well below freezing, the rock would need plenty of time to warm up. Nevertheless, we succeeded in hitting the trail by 9am. With ice crunching underfoot, the wisdom of that feat seemed overrated, but as we rounded the bend, sunshine greeted us. As usual, the southeast flank of Crane is well-protected from the wind, so despite the

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Lukasz launches into the 5.10a variation of Muckraker 


We began the day top-roping Muckraker, the latest 5.9 here on Crane. Lukasz dispatched this with nary a pause, slowing down only a tad for the 5.10a variation that follows the thin crack at mid-height.

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Lukasz leads Carpenter & Das’ 1st pitch 

With one hefty warm-up, Lukasz was ready for the sharp end. Once again, Carpenter & Das was in unusually dry condition, so it drew the vote. Lukasz led the first pitch without a hitch, and soon I was able to follow, making up a bit for yesterday’s end-around via the easy neighboring route. We continued up the climb, with Lukasz once again in front. He led straight through the 5.8 overhang, then, unsure of the route’s finish, ended up climbing straight to the anchors, a run-out 5.8 bit of face climbing which Intensive Care uses.

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Heading up the second pitch

As we rappelled, Tom came walking along the path. Top-roping Recuperation Boulevard is the obvious thing to do when a crowd arrives and there’s a rope on the anchor, so just as yesterday, we set to do this. With a slight changeup: we placed a directional for tackling the 5.10d variation. With this angle, we could climb the 5.10a start, the “standard” line, the 5.8 midway variation, or the aforementioned spanker.

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Lukasz on the 5.10d variation of Recuperation Bvd

Lo and behold, Ben Brooke came walking in, ready for more abuse. Yesterday’s sampling of Crane must have tasted good, despite the healthy helping of 5.10 we fed him. He and I went over to do the E-Stim/Adirondack Rehab link-up while Tom and Lukasz tackled the top-rope variations of Recup. In a few minutes, we had two ropes strung down the cliff.

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Tom on Adirondack Rehab

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Leading p1 of Amphitheatre Crack

 Knowing the sunshine would exit that area earliest, we chose to climb what we could in the Amphitheatre. While Tom and Ben worked their turns on the Isobuttress’ top-rope options, Lukasz and I headed over and roped up for Amphitheatre Crack. This stellar 5.9 has a difficult start and several challenging moves along its seventy foot run to the anchor, but Lukasz was up to the task, adding this stout lead to his tick list.

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Ben stretches on the 5.8 variation of Recuperation Bvd

Meanwhile, exclamations, roars, and shouts were issuing from the goings-on at the Isobuttress. Apparently, Ben was whooping it up on Adirondack Rehab. We would shortly find out that, prior to his first climbing visit to Crane, Ben had never attempted a 5.10 before. Now he has roped up for at least five of them!

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Tom takes his turn

The four of us regrouped as I began following Lukasz’ lead, so we opted to leave gear as directionals and give everyone a chance to climb the route. Both Tom and Ben climbed up, then we shifted the rope to lie over Broken Broom.

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Ben on Broken Broom
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With a chance for good photos from the top of the Tripe Buttress, Lukasz and I clambered up there, while Tom belayed Ben on his fifth 5.10 attempt. We sat on our airy perch, snapping pictures and enjoying the view. We noted however, that the sky was filling in fast with a blanket of clouds. As these occluded the sun, hitherto comfy temps began descending. A stiff, cold breeze began blowing, and with that, we returned to the ground. Interestingly, chunks of ice were clattering down from the depths of the Fr.E.D./High & Dry overhangs; we noted a large slab of ice still trapped deep within the chimney.

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Ben’s strikingly similar pose on Full Moon Fever 

We wrapped up our gear and headed outward, stopping at the Upper Measles Wall to give Lukasz a chance to lead one of the tip-toeing, hop-stepping, sport routes there, Full Moon Fever. This he did without a fall. Ben cleaned the pitch while Tom and I shivered below. We two elected to call it a day, as the weather was decidedly no longer friendly. It was time to go home.

2 Responses to “Back for More”

  1. benjaminadk says:

    wow those are some really nice pictures. especially from the triple buttress what an awesome angle and cool looking rock. i’ll have to make a video next time i have a kid on adirondack rehab. thanks again for memorable weekend of climbing. i look forward to more abuse soon.

  2. admin says:

    Definitely a good place for killer pix. You can click masterpcs of the Amphitheatre, turn around and record falls of of climbers off Hang Time or Black Arch Arête.

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