Catch-Up and Other Condiments

Rock Season rushes along. I’m starting to get behind in covering the “goings-on hereabouts” so here is a brief summary of the past week or so. This doesn’t include a run to Fish Mountain, which (obviously) has its own post, nor Eagle Falls (ditto), and there is nary a mention of our trip (which I hope to cover in separate installments).

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Ra tries out Val’s new route, Yodellaybackloon.

While Ra & I plied the waters of the Thousand Islands, Val came out to Crane and sent her project, the attractive right-facing corner right of Oddy’s Crack of Horror. She dubbed it Yodellaybackloon, it registers in at 5.6 and definitely wants big cams. Think everything from Camalot C4 size 1 to 5, maybe even six if you’re timid on the sharp end. Ra & I climbed it on Saturday, and it’s a fine addition. Congratulations to Val on her first official FA!

That same day (Sunday May 6th) was yet another Crane Mountain Group Day. I heard that in addition to Val and Kevin, Keith, Lukasz Czyz, Michael Gray, and Tom Lane were also there climbing. I don’t regret our trip, but I do miss you guys and these times on the mountain!

I spent much of Thursday working on a new project, or rather, a renewed project. Tom and I climbed a rather unpleasant chimney/cave system on the left side of the amphitheatre last year, escaping out of the darkness onto the face about fifty feet up. The upper pitch we did seemed good enough to make into a route, but our starting pitch was not pretty. I’ve found an alternative that combines to make one of the better multipitch routes at the BAW. Hopefully, more on this shortly…

Yesterday, Tom Rosecrans made his annual pilgrimage to Crane, dragging Lake Placid Rock guide Royce along. I played tour guide for the day, showing them to a few of the routes put in since Tom’s last visit, and a route or two he hadn’t yet done. Pictures say it better, so here’s the rundown of our activities:

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We warmed up on Stairway to Heaven’s first two pitches. Tom led the show.

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Royce then led Moe-hammed, Larry, & Curly.

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Royce is nearing the finish line.

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Tom followed Royce up the route.

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We all took a TR lap on Long Play. Here, Tom throws for the foothold.
Interestingly, Royce found an alternative start, utilizing a freshly-revealed foothold.

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We then headed to Amphitheatre Crack. Tom took first shot at the lead.

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Royce finished it off. We then TR’d Broken Broom before calling it a day.

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