FA #197 (or so): Tun Tavern

Tom added yet another route to the newborn Diagonal Ramp Wall today.

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Tom sets out on the FA of Tun Tavern. 

After last Saturday’s grand opening, there were four routes here: Felonious Mopery, Norman’s Crack of Joy, Kielbasy Posse, and Leapin’ Louie. All but the last followed major crack lines. The remaining cracks ran up Val’s project and her erstwhile “other” project. With her schedule tightening up unexpectedly, she graciously opened the latter up for grabs, and Tom grabbed it enthusiastically.

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Tom places a Hex, ’cause he can.

He set about cleaning the most direct line up this, the biggest feature of the cliff, a large right-facing corner system that develops from a trio of cracks near the base of the cliff and then rises up and rightward to the top. The line Tom chose to take was the rightmost crack, which runs straight up along the corner, finishing straight through an overhang, whereas the corner system jogs right several yards, topping out at the same point as Felonious Mopery.

Ben got behind the project bigtime, even coming up during the Heat Blast on Wednesday to put in long hours toiling away in preparation for the send.

As the broiling temperature dropped to just plain uncomfortable, Tom decided to give it a try. We met reasonably early and headed in, and while we weren’t cool upon arrival, we weren’t half-baked, either. The three of us took up our posts. I jugged up to man the camera, Tom racked gear, Ben held the belay.

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Ben seconds the send.

It was pretty straightforward, after a slightly rocky start. Tom is of the mind that one must begin left of the crack, despite it being at least two full grades harder than starting to its right. But he’s stubborn enough to make it work sometimes, and that he did. Ben followed without falling, and that was that: add Tun Tavern, 5.8+, to the list of Crane Mountain Routes. It is the longest route on the DRW, 55 or 60 feet, and sports several crux-level moves. Bring a couple #4 C4s for this puppy, or hopscotch a single one; there are several places on the route where it comes in handy. I give it two stars in its current condition; as it waxes cleaner it may well end up with three.

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Tom prepares to lead while Ben begins scrubbing his project.

We remained at the crag all day, climbing several other routes while Ben set to scrubbing the last major line, the entire right-rising corner system. With any luck , he will be adding the next new route to the DRW.

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Tom on Norman’s Crack of Joy

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Ben diligently scrubs away while we play.

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TRing Kielbasy Posse

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Ben did take some time off to climb Kielbasy Posse, too.

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Tom eats a Hex, ’cause he can.

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