Archive for January, 2013

Romp up Providence AND Renegade SENT!

Tuesday, January 29th, 2013

Scott came up today, looking to get on some ice. He’s had a fair amount of time on fat stuff, so today I dragged him over to Providence for a bit of mixed action. Having never handled a cam before, this was bound to be an interesting excursion for us.



Icefest on the Waterfall Wall

Monday, January 28th, 2013

Lukasz rips up the first pitch

Seven of us meandered out to Crane Mountain’s Waterfall Wall for to poke at the ice Sunday. Among us was one relative newcomer and one absolute, never-ever. The weather was great, the climbing grand; this was the best climbing day I’ve had this year.


Jog up RBF

Saturday, January 26th, 2013

Mulling over options for today, Tom chose a drive up to Roaring Brook Falls. Something about prefering an hour drive and a 10-minute approach to a 10-minute drive and an hour approach. I warned him that RBF on a Saturday would not be a private venue – we would be queuing up – to no avail. Go figure, lazy bum. Of course, after a week of slogs to the Wild West, a short approach seemed like a nice idea to me…

Tom at the top of pitch 1

It went well. There was a crowd, but we were pretty close to the front of it. The sun was shining, and as usual RBF was out of the wind, alleviating the single-digit temperature and lending a great view during any pauses.

Interesting meeting: the two guys ahead of us mentioned that they’ve climbed the Waterfall Wall on Crane, used to climb it every year. Mike and Devon (sorry if I missspelled your names, guys) think it’s a great adventure day. Very, very cool to meet folks at Adirondack Ice Ground Zero kudoing my backyard!

Mike, Tom, & Devon at the top

RBF was in great shape for climbing, terrible shape for protecting, btw. Gorgeous cauliflowers, enough handholds to make single-tooling almost the better option, and a steep bit near the finish all composed of champagne-baroque glazing pasted to rock. Easy climbing, awful pro.

Waterfall Wall Kicks In

Friday, January 25th, 2013

Despite the frigid conditions, after a day cooped up with chores and paperwork, I decided to race out to Crane’s Waterfall Wall and see how it looked. It looked…marvelous.



Second Coming at the Wild West

Monday, January 21st, 2013


Yep, another expedition to the ice cliffs Mike Prince and I climbed 2 weeks ago.


Wild West Ice

Saturday, January 12th, 2013

We found the “big” ice on West Mountain.