Romp up Providence AND Renegade SENT!

Scott came up today, looking to get on some ice. He’s had a fair amount of time on fat stuff, so today I dragged him over to Providence for a bit of mixed action. Having never handled a cam before, this was bound to be an interesting excursion for us.

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 The narrow band of ice looked great from a distance, so we hurried to gear up and get going. I racked, roped, and began wallowing toward the corner. The base was packed with snow, everything that landed on the cliff above last night funnels down to this spot. As I stepped up, the entire mass shifted. A crack shot across the top of the snow pile, all the way right and all the way left. It didn’t continue its slide, but it served as a wakeup call. Avalanches happen, even in the Adirondacks. Even on Crane.

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More carefully, I worked up to the cliff, then traversed along the top of the snowpile to the corner. Soon I hit ice, and began climbing. It wasn’t as good as it looked. It was a mix of snow and ice, easy to poke but a bit uncertain every time, and nearly useless for screws. Fortunately, I was soon into good rock gear, and not long after, calling “Off belay!”

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Scott was soon ready to follow, and began climbing. From far below, I heard a shout, “Should I take these out?” Oh yeah, Scott hasn’t worked with this stuff before. Fortunately, he was a natural at handling the gear. He got everything out and up without a problem.

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We practically jogged up the second pitch. It was getting a tad late, but I convinced Scott to wander over and look at another mixed line: Renegade. This has been on my To-Do list for quite awhile. Scott was willing to risk a headlamp exit, so I racked up again.

Long story short, Renegade is hard; I’m guessing M6. Pro is a bit spotty in places, but mostly where the going is easier. Getting up the fistcrack section is strenuous, but I think the final overhang is the crux.

And yeah, we needed headlamps.

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