Northeast Cascade Condition

The photo tells the story:


It’s fatter than I’ve ever seen it before. The right side is its usual easy romp, but I was able to ride the right edge of the roof system to the left of the main slab, up a 10′ tall, thick curtain spilling over the top. Heavily cauliflowered at the bottom and chandeliered on the vertical, but solid enough for good sticks as long as I kept to the right verge. I would’ve climbed the left corner – it is so fat, it would’ve been easily stemmed up – but it was soaking wet in there.

The 25′ Vertical Wall seems a bit anemic this season. 

I would’ve climbed the left face, but I’m a weak-kneed chicken.

After topping out, I wandered up the streambed that feeds it, which is currently WI1 but will soon be under snow. I went looking for magical big ice, but didn’t find any. Knew that already. I’ve been here before. But I did get to climb a couple 20′ flows, one of which is nearly vertical, so I managed to get the daily dose of terror before regaining my senses and heading home.

Terrible picture, I know, but here’s an untouched line, with a long vertical swathe beside it

I did take a quick walk farther north, and there’s a lot of ice to be had there. Sadly, much of it will be blanketed in fluff very soon. Hopefully, a couple of us can get back there tomorrow and snag something new before the snow flies.

Leave a Reply

You must be logged in to post a comment.