Archive for March, 2014

Southeast Flank Ice

Wednesday, March 12th, 2014
The main routes along the Southeast Flank of Crane Mountain

The main routes along the Southeast Flank of Crane Mountain

I’ve consolidated, updated, and collated some ice data for Crane’s SE flank. Picture links to a larger image. This is not comprehensive.

1. Providence WI 3 M2 270′: probably the best ice climb on Crane. Ascends a narrow thread of ice in a giant left-facing rock corner. Bring a run of cams from C3s to #2 C4, and a few ice screws. Needs prolonged freezing temps to form. First pitch is 170′. Rappel to the base via three raps with a single rope, rappelling on the outside of the face at the top of the first pitch (there is no intermediate rap position inside the corner).

2. West Coast Connection (M4) and Fifi’s Frozen Fingers WI 3+ 80′: WCW runs up a thinly-glazed chimney system. Bring a #4 C4, just in case. FFF climbs the fat ice flow on the steep face. There is a pitch below these routes, consisting of short steep ice and large ledges.

3. Waterfall Wall WI 2 (with top pitches from WI 4 to M3) 800′: the other contender for best climb on Crane. 4 pitches of grade 2 ice, one nontechnical pitch, and options at the top wall between WI 3, 4-, or M3.

4. Tier Drops WI 4 M1 (with harder options) 125′: this short route ascends a boulder pile to reach a large ledge with a row of 20′ curtains above it. The left side is harder than the rightmost pillar.

5. By Golly Gully WI 2- 500′: This route is more an alpine adventure than ice climb, however there are options to either side along the way that bump up the challenge considerably. And it tops out beside a nice, flat viewpoint. This gully is a potential avalanche chute.

6. Northeast Cascade WI 2- 110′: While the right side is trivially easy, the left side sports strenuous corner or face climbing.