New Routes 2015

NEW ROUTES 2015

Bruce descends after the FA of "All Wet" the entire run, including the top pitch, of the Waterfall Wall.

Bruce descends after the FA of “All Wet” the entire run, including the top pitch, of the Waterfall Wall.

This summary has been a long time coming. Lots of new routes were put up in 2015, with a lot of people pitching in to get the jobs done. This season added several strong climbers to the parties digging for FA nuggets on Crane, and resulted not only a lot of new routes, but a marked increase in the difficulty of routes here.

Beaverview Wall

This crag saw some action at the desperate end of the prolonged 2015 season. Both of these routes (as well as others in this area) would garner additional stars if cleaned, but that will be a difficult task. Be forewarned: these routes are trés dirty.

Leaver Your Beaver 5.5 PG 5.3 R 230’

Start: at an ill-defined right-facing flake below a left-rising horizontal crack, about 10’ left and below a stepped, left-facing corner that begins 20’ up, and turns to become an overhang 30’ up.

P1 5.5 PG 5.3 R: A tricky move off the ground reaches the left-rising horizontal crack. Step onto this and move left 8’, to a subtle rock rib. Climb up the rib without protection to an overhang formed by the aforementioned left-facing corner. Climb through the overhang at a vertical crack, and follow vertical seams and cracks to a ledge. 80’

P2 5.5 G: Begin at a pair of vertical cracks leading up a slab to a wide crack. Climb slab and cracks to a large, sloping, tree ledge. 50’

P3 5.5 G 5.2 R: At the top of the tree ledge is a left-leaning crack leading up to join a left-facing, left-leaning corner. Climb crack and corner to lower-angle slab, then climb up textured black slab on the right to another wooded ledge. 100’

Eager Beaver 5.4 PG 80’

Start: at minute right-rising footholds leading to the bottom of a left-stepping, left-facing corner system, which becomes an overhang 30’ up.

P1: Climb out footholds to reach the base of the corner, then climb the slab on the outside right of the corner until it is possible to reach a vertical seam running up the slab. Climb up this to a left-rising horizontal crack, move left 6’ along this feature, then climb up easy slab to a ledge.

Lower Measles Wall

While the pickings are getting slim in these parts, they have not vanished.

Divots 5.3 R 30’

Because it’s there.
Start
: 10’ left of the skanky pool, at the least-mossy strip on the slab.

P1: Climb the excellent knobs running straight up the least-mossy bit of slab, to just barely right of a spruce tree. There is no gear on this route, any fall will go to the ground.

Upper Measles Wall

Like the LMW, possibilities are fast being whittled away, and the few that have not been sent will require a lot of cleaning and strong climbers to send.

Cabin Fever 5.4 G 65’

Snow remained late into the spring of 2015, hence this act of desperation: a massive cleanup effort in lieu of the massive slog required to go anywhere else on the mountain well into April.

Start: at a wet, vertical crack leading to a cluster of trees on the sloping ledge 25’ up, just left of the wide black/wet streak near the center of the Upper Measles Wall.

P1: Climb up crack to a flake, move onto the slab via the flake’s edge. Step left behind the cluster of trees to a chimney formed by a large block lying left of the overhanging face of the cliff proper. Climb up the chimney to the top of the block, step onto the slab above the overhang and scramble left to the outside right edge of a large dihedral. Climb into the dihedral and up the wide crack in its corner, stepping out onto the right edge to reach the top of the cliff.

Hydrophilia 5.2 G

Dirty and frequently wet.

Start: at the base of a left-rising diagonal crack, 16’ right of the regular start of Hydrophobia.

P1: Follow crack to the anchor.

Little Middle Slab (aka Springfield)

This cliff has been developed extensively, only to find that, once cleaned up, the crack lines are extremely easy. The view is pleasant, the cracks are good for learning protection placement, and there are a couple less-easy lines on the right side of the formation. Paul Cerone put up his first first-ascents here and chose a Simpsons-based theme for their names; the names of routes previously done were changed to harmonize with their new neighbors.
Bring a few large cams (up to #4 Camalot) along with a regular rack, and double up on the medium to large sizes.

Homer 5.2 60’

Start: below the leftmost crack on the left side of the slab. The crack does not quite reach the base of the slab.

P1: Up slab to crack. Climb crack through a short steep spot, then climb the slab left of a brush-filled, low-angle crack to a stance below a spruce tree.

Bart 5.2 65’

A father-and-son FA.

Start: at an low-angle open book leading to a crack which jogs left 20’ up. The erstwhile Little Middle Crack (now called Maggie) joins this route 40’ up.

P1: climb up to crack and follow it left around the jog, up to the top.

Moe Szylstak 5.3 G 65’

Same start as Bart, but immediately move right onto a slab, step up through a steep bit using intermittent cracks for holds and gear. Go up and right to reach a wide vertical crack right of a maple bush at 25’ and take it to the top.

Diamond Joe Quimby 5.7 G 5.4 R 55’

Start: at the bottom of a left-rising, left-facing corner with an overhanging right side, left of the low point of the slab.

P1: Scramble up corner to beneath the overhanging right side, then hand traverse right using a good horizontal above the overhang, until it is possible to get footing and make a long reach to another good horizontal hold. Move up and slightly left to a short vertical crack in the slab above. Climb this to its end, reach another short crack, then climb without protection, joining the final real moves of Kang & Kodos before reaching easy ground and going to a fixed anchor on an oak tree at the top of the slab.

Kang & Kodos 5.6 PG 55’

Start: 8’ right of the right side of the “toe” or low end of the crag.

P1: Climb up right-slanting, small corner until it is possible to traverse left across the face to a pair of horizontal cracks on the edge of the buttress. A hidden crack along the way takes a micro-cam. Climb onto the uppermost horizontal, then run it out up easy slab to the top.

Mr. Burns 5.7 R 50’

Start: around to the right of the slab, the outcrop is steeper; this route follows the first crack on this face. It lies about 12’ up from the low point of the formation.

P1: Climb crack, which thins to a near-useless seam for a few feet (crux) as it leads through the steepest part of the wall.

Principle Skinner 5.5 G 50’

Start: beneath a left-rising, left-facing corner 5’ right of a vertical crack running through a ground-level overhanging bulge.

P1: Step up onto a small ledge, then stem using the corner on the right and the vertical crack on the left, until it is possible to shift left to a good stance below a steep section with a crack running through it. Make a committing move to pass the bulge.

Marge 5.6 G 40’

Start: at a 5’ x 5’, flat boulder lying on the ground 35’ right of the low end of the right face of the crag.

P1: Make a difficult move up to reach a thin, right-rising crack, then follow it up and right to the easy slab and on to the top.

Bella Vista Area

Second Pitch to Bon Chance 5.5 X 60’

In keeping with the lower pitch’s character, protection is poor. It begins where the top pitch left off: at a small oak tree with a fixed anchor on it, beneath the left edge of the Bella Vista Slab’s midway headwall.

P1: Climb up the left edge of the headwall, slinging oak branches and one sloping flake on the edge. Make a few tricky slab moves up the headwall, trending rightward to reach low-angle rock and join Le Jeure de Bon Heures where it traverses onto the slab. Continue up to the fixed anchor on an oak tree along the same line as other routes.

Land of Overhangs

The big news here is Lukasz’ send of the long-term project Tom’s Roof. Kirby Girard showed us the way on top-rope, so scores the FA, but he graciously left it for Lukasz to pull on lead.

Logging Flight Time 5.11a G 50′

Originally known as Tom’s Roof.

Start: near the right edge of a flaky slab under a ceiling twenty feet up.

P1: Climb the flaky slab using huecos and horizontals to the right inside edge of the ceiling. Make a long reach to a horizontal crack, then swing out the crack 7′ to a short vertical crack, and use that to pull up into a stance on the horizontal crack. Easy climbing leads to a tree.

Ledgehopper 5.5 PG 460’

An easier tour of the South Corner Cliffs (than Animal or Rise & Shine), linking several good routes and adding a smattering of new territory. Expect raw conditions in several spots along the way, particularly on the variations.

Start: Same as Misty Mountain Hop: 7’ left of the chimney (the start of Spiral Staircase) on the left edge of the Stairway to Heaven buttress.

P1 5.4 G: Traverse to the top of the chimney via a rounded ledge beneath a bulging face. Climb up the crack system of Spiral Staircase to a small ledge beneath the final offwidth chimney, then traverse left to finish on the final moves of Misty Mountain Hop. 45’

P2 5.5 PG: Walk left 20’ and climb a right-rising ramp system, crossing the second pitch of Stairway to Heaven to a ledge, then continuing up the short, steep face to a scruffy finish on a sloping, wooded ledge. 50’

P3 5.4 PG: Shift the belay by walking uphill 60’ to the terrace below the Provando Wall. Begin on the right end of the terrace (same start as Fireworks), but make an awkward traverse on a sloping ledge beneath the bulging wall, going right onto a steep ramp leading to a short, left-facing, blocky corner. Climb up and left to the oak tree partway up Fireworks. 30’

P4 5.4 PG: Follow Fireworks onto the slab a few feet, then head left along the horizontal crack, climbing up to a second horizontal crack at the bolt of Riprovando. Continue leftward to the upper portion of Provando and climb that crack to the ledge with the herd path leading to the Jammer Wall. 60’

P5 5.3 G: Shift the belay 50’ left along the herd path, to the foot of a right-rising crack with a small, rounded, left-leaning, right-facing corner to its left. Climb corner to the right-rising ledge near the start of On the Fence, then climb that route. 120’

P6 Class 4: (V1) Walk up the right-rising ramp on the right end of the ledge (V2), passing through broken rock, to an oak tree with a 12’ long, sharply edged boulder-flake above and to its right. It is possible to leave the scruffy ramp at about the same spot as V2, traversing right to the anchors for either Action Steps or Stand Your Ground.100’

P7 5.0 PG:  Scramble up around the large flake, walk up a narrow, sloping rock ledge to easier terrain, then make a final move up a short slab to reach the ledge at the top of the Animal Charm Wall. 75’

V1 5.2 PG

Walk left on the ledge, dropping down to an oak tree at the top of a left-facing corner on the right side of the 2nd Amendment Wall. Make an airy step left across a gap to reach a vertical grassy slope and claw to a short offwidth crack above it. Move up the right-rising, grassy ramp to another grassy ledge. Move up and left to stacked blocks and weave up through them (this is part of the Lane-Harrison Alpine route) to their top.
Originally done as part of a “winter” route, during an unusually warm January thaw.

V2 5.7 R 130’

This was a failed attempt at finding an easy original finish to the link-up.
P1 5.7 R
: Shift the belay 60’ right, up the ramp, at an oak tree. Scramble a few feet farther up the ramp, then move out left onto easy slab. Walk up to a headwall, climbing knobs past twin horizontal cracks with a small wedge of rock between them, reach another crack, then make a committing move off the crack to a small ledge above it. Climb up slab (a #3 or 4 C4 might protect the initial moves, but there is no protection on the rest of the slab) through a shallow scoop on crystalline crimps and rounded knobs to a ledge with an oak tree 20’ to the right. Belay at the tree. 65’
P2 5.5 R: Walk right of the oak tree 10’, then climb up a left-rising, right-facing corner to underneath a bulging block. Move right onto a brushy ledge beside the bulge, then climb up left onto the block, beneath a face with a right-rising, right-facing corner. Climb up the corner until it is possible to step left onto a flaring horizontal seam. Make a very dicey move across the slab to reach an undercling hold near the edge of the slab, then climb up easier slab to the top. 65’
To descend, walk right into the woods, all the way across the top of the Carnivore Crack Wall then traverse climber’s left downward to the rappel anchor at the top of Animal Charm.

Upper South Corner Cliffs

Second Amendment Wall

Zig Zag Rag 5.6 R 70’

Interesting moves, with good protection everywhere except the crux. One of the last new routes of 2015, it is still quite filthy.

Start: At a right-rising diagonal, wide crack along the path, about 30’ right of the start of Blueberry Tafone and 40’ left and below the terrace of First Amendment.

P1: Climb right-rising crack to a stance, then work up left behind a clump of conifers and an oak tree. Climb up to the higher of two right-rising ramps, then make a difficult move through a bulge, using knobs and a right-facing vertical edge to low-angle slab. Scamper up this to another right-rising crack/narrow ledge, move up this a few feet then up and left to a notch breaking a right-rising bulge below a right-facing corner with a wide crack in it. Climb up into the corner, then climb the easy face on the left side of it, topping out at a large spruce tree.

Boxing Day Blues 5.2 R 55’

Like its neighbor to the left, done late in the year (Boxing Day, in fact), this is still very dirty.

Start: At the extreme left end of the terrace at the base of the Second Amendment Wall.

P1: Climb up rock steps to a left-rising ramp, and follow it to its end. Move out 5’ left to a notch in the bulge above to get above that difficulty, then clamber up easy terrain to a final steep, right-rising, right-facing corner and take it to the top.

First Amendment 5.10a G 150’

Easier but more sustained than Second Amendment, this route lies to the left of its older sibling. While extensively bolted, there is one section where a small rack (cams from ½” to 3”) is necessary.

Start: near the left side of the terrace under the Second Amendment Wall, below a shallow, left-rising, rounded rail of footholds ending 10’ up.

P1 5.10a G: Climb up to and along the rounded, left-rising holds to its end, then friction up and right, then trending back left slightly, following fixed gear until the angle eases at 75’. Head up to a ledge formed by a flake scar, then continue up and right to a shallow, left-rising groove. Follow it to an overlap and mount this via a right-rising crack leading to a large horizontal crack (20’ left of and slightly below the belay anchor of Second Amendment). Climb up vertical line of knobs and plates to a ledge in a large alcove just left of the overhang above the slab.

Descent NOTE: Double ropes are required to rappel straight down. With a single rope, rappel to the Second Amendment anchor, then rappel to the base.

Second Helping 5.10b G 175’ ««

Like its neighbor, this is another route where the aspirant’s taller partner had to step in and solve the upper crux; thus the name. The first attempt was scuttled by rain after the first pitch.

Start: Same as Second Amendment: at the base of the tall slab, next to a crack arching upward (this is the same start as the variation Bill of Rights).

P1 5.9 G: Climb up the arching crack to a shelf, then make a friction move upward left to a small stance. Climb up the slab directly above to the left end of a horizontal crack, then move up and left to a stance under a large hanging block. Continue up the slab, passing the block, (V1) then cross a dirt gully and climb up the slab along a black streak to the right end of a small overlap. Pass the overlap, then step right and climb good knobs to the horizontal crack below the fixed belay anchor of Second Amendment. Traverse to the anchors and belay. 120’

P2 5.10b: Traverse 10’ right of the anchor and climb knobs to a point 8’ left of a block pinned beneath the right end of an overhang. Climb through overhang (excessively difficult for short climbers) to a stance on a sloping ledge, by a right-rising crack. Climb crack to a tree ledge. 55’

V1 Short Change 5.10a 110’

This variation provides an alternative finish for anyone under 6’ tall.

P1 5.7 PG 50’:Do not cross the dirt gully; continue up the slab to its end at an outside corner facing left. Climb along the edge of the corner to the ledge and anchor shared with Saratoga and Solar Grace.

P2 5.10a G 5.5 R 60’: Step down from the anchor to the ledge, then step across the dirt gully and traverse 15’ left to rejoin the standard line. At the overhang, climb up through the notch in the overhang using the block pinned underneath, swinging left from it to gain the sloping ledge stance. Climb directly up the face to the top. This move is more difficult for tall climbers. There is a God.

Saratoga 5.8 PG 95’

There are adequate, but tricky and occasionally strenuous gear placements. Already a popular run, and justly so.

Start: Same as Solar Grace.

P1: Climb vertical crack to rounded ledge. Traverse left ten feet to the base of a rounded, left-rising ramp below a bulging face. Go up the ramp, reach for a horizontal crack, make a strenuous stand on the right end of that crack to reach knobs leading up and right (this is very near Solar Grace). Move up left to an elongated “plate”, climb up this to reach a good crack behind a left-facing flake, and climb up it to a small overhang. Make another reach for a horizontal crack, and move up the center of the knobby face to the ledge shared with Solar Grace.

Slanting Cracks Wall

While this area has languished for the attention it deserves (in part because it requires a long approach), there is a lot of potential here.

Madcap 5.7 G 100’

Start: This route lies on the face 60′ left of Fifi Fingers, at a notch leading to a small stance in a flared chimney, with two cracks leading out from the top of it.

P1: Climb up to the stance below the double cracks, then through the constriction to a good stance. Climb up the right crack a few moves until it fades, then shift to the left one and continue to another stance. Take a left-rising, sinuous wide crack up a steep face to a ledge on the right, then step back out on the face and climb unprotected slab as the angle eases, to reach trees to the right.

Waterfall Wall

Several trees fell from the left edge of the waterfall’s main slab, opening room for two more lines on it. Unfortunately, the remains of these trees lie at the base of the rock, making access somewhat difficult. This year saw a lot of work in this area, in part because it lies within walking distance of my house – no vehicle needed. First up is a final, successful climb of the entire line of slabs used in the winter climb.

All Wet 5.7 PG 5.5 X

The Waterfall Wall is popular as a long, mild ice climb, but way back when (the 1990s), it was also the most popular rock climbing area on the mountain. This was, admittedly, back in the days when Crane Mountain’s climbing population consisted of me and whatever poor fool I could con into hiking out there. But it was close to home, had a lot of modest slab to climb, and a couple interesting top-ropes. Over the years, every pitch of the ice climbing route has been soloed – every pitch except the topmost one. Bruce Monroe came up one day, and we finally put that puppy to rest – despite the less-than stellar conditions. Much was wet.

Start (a.k.a. P1) 5.6 R ~110’: Pick a pitch; but on the first successful send, it was Waterfall Left. Better protection and easier climbing is available on The Verge, less pro and harder going on The Verge Inn, and if you’re willing to traverse through truly nasty blowdown, loose boulders, or across wet slabs, almost any route along the lower cliff can be utilized to begin your “odd”yssey.

P2 5.6 PG 5.4 X 140’: Dry conditions may increase your options: the crack on the left edge of the watercourse has been climbed, for example; but on the initial unabridged ascent, we climbed from the bottom left edge of the dry buttress right of the watercourse to its upper right end. The first (and only relevant) pro lay in the crack 35’ up, rendering the most difficult move somewhat safer than the lesser moves below. After continuing rightward into a facetious pocketed groove, our route went up left to easy ground, then scrambled to the trees at the base of the next pitch.

P3 5.3 X 75’: If dry, the right-facing corner where the water usually runs is a class 3 scramble, the slab to its is an unprotectable 5.6 that gets easy after 10’, and there are a couple overhangs left of the watercourse that have been climbed, all of which involve tricky unprotected pulls to easy, short slabs into forest. The first full ascent opted for the low-angle, green slab right of the watercourse, because the entire watercourse was of course, coursing. This slab, while low-angle, has very little to offer in the way of gear (effectively one oak sapling), and  a few moves that would be trivially easy on sparkling clean rock, but are much more inspiring with their present endowment of greenery. Tip-toe up the start, about 8’ right of the boundary with the wet (and/or brown) rock, past the aforementioned sapling, traverse left 6’ along a seam to the edge of the green slab, then make a tricky move up following a suspicious line of clean patches to the top of the slab, being careful not to dislodge any of the loose rock shingles along the way. Belay with the same care, to avoid annoying your second.

P4 Class 2 260’: Cross the stream, then head up and right to a ramp leading to the base of the next pitch, a slab with a 7’ tall overlap above a scruffy ledge 75’ up.

P5 5.5 X 150’: Probably the most dangerous pitch on the route. There is no protection for the first 65’, and although the lower, steeper section sports holds and dries relatively quickly, the upper, lower-angled stretch is usually wet; wet and very dirty, and almost impossible to climb in said condition. This upper section is not visible from the base; the possibility of climbing into a trap exists. With no pro below, the near-certain fall attempting the moss covered slab directly above would be fatal. While this slab has been climbed in thoroughly dry conditions, the complete ascent managed a tenuous escape leftward after climbing up between two wet streaks only to discover the mess at the top, by sneaking under a loose rock plate on wet though clean(ish) rock, snagging pro in the wet right-facing corner, then scrambling up woods and moss to rejoin the regular ice climbing path after traversing right under the overlap.

P6 5.7 PG 85’: What we came here for; the only pitch that hadn’t seen an earlier ascent, and possibly, with some modifications and cleanup, an excellent line. Cowardliness obstructed a direct assault on the normal “ice curtain” line, dampness precluded a direct run at the mixed one, but we managed a hybrid that, save for the disgusting traverse, was decent. Climb up the left side of the 20’ tall block lying near the center of the face, to its top, then traverse left to a right-facing corner (both wet and dirty), make a couple funky upward moves, then hop left onto dry and clean slab leading to a stance under the overhang. Commence a long and very wet traverse, 25’ right to a position 8’ below and right of the bottom of a vertical crack. Climb up to the crack and through it to the top. After traversing 20’ of wet rock whilst being dripped on continuously, the 5.7 moves getting into and up the crack were a welcome relief.

Left End Blockade

This is a small appendage of the Scout About Slab, beneath and separated from it by a low-angle, dirty gully. It lies 100 m left of the Waterfall Main Face. Approach by walking left along the base of the cliff left of the main face. The most striking feature is a large right-facing corner with a left-rising diagonal crack near the base. Past this corner, the bottom of the face steepens to slightly past vertical.

Objet d’Irt 5.4 R 65’

Start: at a rounded, right-rising ramp 20’ right of the large, right-facing corner.

P1: Go up ramp, then follow a short vertical crack to its end, and continue up to a stance right of a very large, tilted, hanging block. Stem up the edge of the block to reach a right-rising ramp on the main face, and follow that right to a vertical crack in a slab (this is the top of Block Aid). Take the vertical crack to a sloping tree ledge.

Block Aid 5.7 G 65’

Were it not for the stacked blocks at the start, this route would warrant an extra star or two.

Start: at a vertical crack which runs through a bulging face of stacked blocks 30’ right of the large right-facing corner.

P1: Climb vertical crack through bulge to a stance. Scramble up to a ledge beneath another steep spot in the vertical crack. Take the crack to the top.

Last Call 5.7 G 55’

Start: at a right-facing corner on the right end of the 15’ high stacked blocks.

P1: Climb corner onto the ledge on top of the blocks, then follow vertical crack in the same, diminished corner, through a small overhang where the corner ends. Continue up the crack to the top.

Scout About Slab

This is the slab, or collection of slabs, lying left of the main Waterfall Slab. The lower lefthand section of this slab is broken into two tiers, the lowest a short, dirty slab, the next a 20 – 35’ slab, the uppermost slab ranging up to 100’. While several routes have lower pitches, the best climbing tends to be on the uppermost slab. This can be reached via a steep, slippery class 3 gully lying on the left edge of the Main Slab.

Variation: Scout About Direct 5.5 G 40’

The original route on this slab wandered up and leftward across the slab via a thin foot traverse after reaching the top of the vertical crack; this variation utilizes fixed pro to make a more direct run up the slab. After climbing the vertical crack, move up and right to a stance at a small horizontal. Climb directly up the slab past two bolts, angling left to an oak tree as the angle eases.

Arbor Eat ‘Em 5.5 G 60’

Wrestling prickly branches to gain protection and sweeping off slippery needles from each hold makes this one an instant classic.

Start: Scramble up the steep gully left of the Waterfall Slab, to the right end of a long, tree-filled ledge system running gently downward to the left. This is the Scout About ledge. Begin at a dirt-filled, vertical groove heading up to a spruce tree, and far up past it, a pair of large pine trees.

P1 60’ 5.5 G: Step up the left edge of the dirt groove, moving out left onto the slab to circumvent the spruce tree, then move back right, above the spruce tree, into a left-facing corner leading up to pine trees. Climb the corner to the first pine tree, and rappel. It certainly is possible to climb past this point, but hardly worthwhile.

Tumbling Dice 5.6 PG 170’

This “multi-link” route begins at the base of the waterfall area, but each pitch can be reached by scrambling up the steep gully. The top pitch is good – and scary: it has a long run-out.

Start: on the right-facing corner on the left side of the steep gully immediately left of the main waterfall slab.

P1 5.6 G 20’: Climb up blocky rock on the outside edge of the corner to a horizontal crack beneath a bulging block. Traverse left to a right-rising crack and climb that to a narrow top-out. Scramble 25’ up and left to the toe of the next slab.

P2 5.5 PG 45’: Starting 10’ left of the toe of the slab, friction right to a vertical crack (alternates: easier: move farther left and scramble up an easy, dirty ramp; harder – 5.8 – friction directly up the outer edge of the corner of the slab), then step up onto a small stance. Continue up the outside edge of the slab to the top. Either skirt around the “Big Die” to its right, or step around its lower point to the left and climb directly up it to top out.

P3 5.5 PG 100’: Climb directly up the slab, right of a dirt runnel, until even with another spruce tree. Traverse right 12’ on a sloping foot ledge to reach a left-rising diagonal crack. Climb the crack to its end, then move up a short way to a left-rising seam. Climb it to a stance on the left near the seam’s end, make a few run-out easy friction moves, then move left to a large white pine tree to belay, or scramble up and left on 40’ of easy slab to the top of the formation.

Main Waterfall Slab

The Verge 5.5 R 110’

While there is a long runout three quarters of the way up, most of this line is well-protected, and the only unprotectable section can be skirted by using the gully immediately left of it. The bottom of the route is currently mossy and blocked by an inverted tree trunk, but one can begin on top of the trunk to avoid the moss.

Start: At the left edge of the main waterfall slab. If the inverted trunk is still blocking this spot, begin on the trunk.

P1: Follow twin thin cracks rising left to a stance atop blocks on the left edge of the slab. Continue up a left-leaning, left-facing corner and crack to their end at a rounded bulge (escape left possible here). Climb up the bulge and slightly rightward to the top of the slab.

The Verge Inn 5.7 X

While the initial runout of P1 is unavoidable, the most dangerous sections of P2 can be mitigated with a cagey belay and clever rope tricks. An initial attempt (solo) almost ended in disaster at the second wave of P2. Fortunately, a tree branch halted the fall.

Start: Same as Waterfall Left: at the base of the slab left of the main water flow.

P1 110’ 5.7 X: Climb directly up dimpled face, passing a pair of small slit pockets (possible Tricam placements?) at 50’. Head to a left-leaning, useless crack and follow it upward. Briefly, it provides protection before pinching off once again as it passes through the final steep wave (5.6 R). Once over the wave, move up and slightly right, climbing up a black streak to the top of the slab.

P2 120’ 5.7 X (Setting the belayer far upslope of the start and lassoing tree branches mitigates the grade to 5.7 PG 5.4 R, but if the tree branches die, 5.7 X will be the grade): Shift the belay 35’ left, to the right edge of another slab. Step out onto the slab at the base of the ledge (immediately putting the climber 60’ up this slab), then climb along the right edge of the slab, with a hard move near the start and another difficult wave 50’ farther up. After these sections, the climbing eases; continue up the slab to an oak tree growing between the slab and a large flake of rock.

P3 5.2 PG 80’; Climb up and left on easier slabs to the top of the formation.

Descent: Walk climber’s left to a left-descending ramp; take it, being careful not to turn directly downward until in sight of the boulder-choked streambed. At that point, skirt back along the base of a short cliff to the base of the Waterfall. It is possible to escape climber’s right into a gully at the top of P2, descending and making a short (20’) rappel to reach the sloping ledge at the top of P1. From there, make a class 3 descent along the left side of the main slab or rappel, angling left if using a 60m rope.

Right-Steep Wall

Right of the low-angle slab of the Main Waterfall area, the bottom of the cliff sweeps steeply from the easy-angled slab above, becoming vertical, then blocked by a long ceiling which begins low and rises gradually to the right. Learning to Fly angles over the steepest parts using the lower-angled slab.

The ceiling blocks access to several excellent vertical cracks and corners; the traversing line of Learning to Fly skirts above this obstacle to access the easier climbing above.

Learning to Fly 5.5 PG 160’ (extension of an established route)

This route was originally used to access the tree branch belay for top-roping I’ll Fly Away. Still useful for reaching the anchors of that climb and the project to its right, the route has been extended all the way up the slab.

P1 5.5 G 110’: Begin left of the steep section, at a right-rising narrow foot ramp. Step onto the slab and traverse straight right, passing a bolt and a 1’ long horizontal crack, crossing a vertical crack, then a vertical seam, to reach the base of a left-facing corner with its bottom broken by a crack running out right. Climb over the corner at the crack onto the slab above the lip of the tall, steep wall. Continue traversing to a vertical crack just left of the anchors of I’ll Fly Away, then climb up the crack to a horizontal crack, above which the vertical crack becomes a closed seam. Traverse right to another vertical crack and take it up the slab to a narrow dirt ledge, and step right to an oak tree to belay.

P2 5.5 PG 50’: Climb up easy slab moving slightly left to a vertical line of pods running through a final headwall. Climb through bulge using pods and holds on the face to low-angle slab, and follow a vertical seam onto a sloping tree ledge.

I’ll Fly Away 5.10a G 40’

Originally a top-rope route, now it sports bolts and a fixed anchor. A ½” cam is useful for protecting the first clip. Although short, this is an excellent route.

Start: below two blocks chocked into a crevice at head height, at the left end of level ground below the steep face of this area.

P1: Climb up and onto blocks. Make a tricky move to reach a horizontal hold, mantle onto it, then move up and right, traversing 6’ to a stance below and slightly right of a left-facing, rounded corner. Move up into the corner and break through onto the slab above the steep section, reaching a two-bolt anchor.

Keymaster C2 5.6 PG 120’

This route breaks through the ceiling that crosses fifty feet of the face, beginning 30’ right of I’ll Fly Away and rising rightward. Cleaned up, the upper section would be excellent moderate climbing. The ceiling requires cagey aid placements, often using brass nuts.

Start: on the left end of a large block lying under the big ceiling, just right of a short, ramp-like corner with a jagged, sharp edge, leading outward toward the overhang.

P1: Climb up ramp-like corner to gain first gear in a 1 ¼” crack pointing down. Aid right using a very thin crack, then a wide (2”+) crack. 2’ left of the point where the wide crack steps up, forming a 3’ high right-facing corner before turning horizontally again and becoming an even wider crack (4”+), reach up to a good finger/thin hands vertical crack at the lip of the ceiling. Aid up this until it peters out, then move right to another vertical crack, which also peters out at the same point, but reforms 6’ higher. Free climb through the gap, then continue aiding up the crack and slab to a debris-covered, sloping ledge.

Gear: a set of brass nuts and a set of offset brass nuts, a full set of C3s or equivalent microcams, doubles of ¼” cams, triples of ½” to 2” cams, one 3” or 4” cam.

Jim and Buzz’ Contributions on Crane Mountain

I don’t have the descriptions handy – check out Adirondackrock’s New Routes page for the details. Note however, the caliber of routes here, including Crane’s first 5.13.

Smash! 5.12b G On the Animal Charm Wall

Crisis Inverted 5.12c

Drop 5.13a

Say Hello to my Little Friend 5.12d

Kirby & Rocksport Crew Contributions on Crane Mountain

Kirby not only showed us how to get Tom’s Roof done, but also began working an uber-hard project of his own. Between burns on that, he and his companions found time to clean, prep, and send a couple other routes as well.

Rocksport 5.10 5.11a

Kirby’s Nine 5.10b

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