Archive for October, 2017

SENT!

Friday, October 20th, 2017

After three years of struggling, I finally sent my longterm project at the IRC.

Eschewing cams, I chose to attempt this short line with only passive gear. My rack included some oldies: two small wired Hexcentrics and two Wedgefast chocks (look ’em up kiddies, they were the Bomb for a brief time in the late 70s/early 80s); plus the now-famous DMM Offsets, both brass and aluminum. Round it out with a couple BD Stoppers and I had everything needed.

It would be easier with a few cams, but not a lot easier; as many of the placements take chocks better than cams. A single set of cams from 1/4″ to 1″, plus a double set of small to medium nuts would do.

No Springs Attached 5.10d G 55′

Stem up using the obtuse right-facing corner to the left and the wide crack on the right (the start of Mile-Long ) to the overhang. Pass the overhang via the left of two parallel cracks, then follow cracks to the point where the face steepens from less than, to more than vertical. Continue up the crack and corner, stepping back and forth around the bend, to reach easy angle rock sloping to a large ledge.

It is possible to walk off to climber’s left. There is cliff above, but it is a series of short (15 – 20′) steps. It is possible to traverse right to reach the upper part of Mile-Long if desired.

This brings the count of IRC up to 10 routes. Steve O. has two projects awaiting completion, and Tom seems to have latched onto a possible variation project. Hopefully these get sent soon, but it is hard to say what the weather will provide for us this late in the year.

Thank you Tom, for willingly sacrificing gas and time to this project!