Archive for the ‘Rock’ Category

SENT!

Friday, October 20th, 2017

After three years of struggling, I finally sent my longterm project at the IRC.

Eschewing cams, I chose to attempt this short line with only passive gear. My rack included some oldies: two small wired Hexcentrics and two Wedgefast chocks (look ’em up kiddies, they were the Bomb for a brief time in the late 70s/early 80s); plus the now-famous DMM Offsets, both brass and aluminum. Round it out with a couple BD Stoppers and I had everything needed.

It would be easier with a few cams, but not a lot easier; as many of the placements take chocks better than cams. A single set of cams from 1/4″ to 1″, plus a double set of small to medium nuts would do.

No Springs Attached 5.10d G 55′

Stem up using the obtuse right-facing corner to the left and the wide crack on the right (the start of Mile-Long ) to the overhang. Pass the overhang via the left of two parallel cracks, then follow cracks to the point where the face steepens from less than, to more than vertical. Continue up the crack and corner, stepping back and forth around the bend, to reach easy angle rock sloping to a large ledge.

It is possible to walk off to climber’s left. There is cliff above, but it is a series of short (15 – 20′) steps. It is possible to traverse right to reach the upper part of Mile-Long if desired.

This brings the count of IRC up to 10 routes. Steve O. has two projects awaiting completion, and Tom seems to have latched onto a possible variation project. Hopefully these get sent soon, but it is hard to say what the weather will provide for us this late in the year.

Thank you Tom, for willingly sacrificing gas and time to this project!

Old Forge Preview 2: In-depth on Bald Mountain

Thursday, August 31st, 2017

Bald Mountain Expedition

Tom nears the top of the stellar route Branches at Bald Mountain's Main Face

Tom nears the top of the stellar route Branches at Bald Mountain’s Main Face

In preparation for this year’s Southern Adirondack Rockclimbers’ Festival, I spent 3 days at Bald Mountain’s main face, exploring, scrubbing, and putting up a new route. (more…)

PREVIEW: OLD FORGE CLIMBING!

Wednesday, August 9th, 2017

SAdkRF 2017 Preview

Eagle Falls Cliffs

Eagle Falls Cliffs

We spent a long weekend in Thendara, taking a look around the western fringe of the Adirondacks to get a feel for the upcoming Rockclimbers’ Festival that takes place the Friday through Sunday, after Labor Day, September 8 – 10 this year. Here’s our take on this corner of the park.

(more…)

Another February Jammer Day

Tuesday, February 28th, 2017
Tom on Provando's Direct third pitch

Tom on Provando’s Direct third pitch

Having just pushed over 700’ of ice climbing each of the two previous days, I still couldn’t pass up heading to the Jammer Wall on such a nice day as I awoke to on Wednesday. Calling Tom, we arranged to meet up there. I would provide the rope, he the rack. Racing through a minor amount of housework, I was soon on my way. (more…)

Premature Expectations

Sunday, February 19th, 2017

Saturday morning, the sun shone unhindered from a cloudless bluebird sky. I packed my regular winter gear, but stuffed a pair of rock shoes in as well, thinking to break trail to the Jammer Wall. We’ve had a lot of snow over the last three weeks, gradually building from a few crusty old inches left from January to over a foot and a half on the ground. I knew the trek would be difficult, but this sudden warmth made me too antsy to sit around. Shortly after 9a, I was on my way.

Looking up at the Animal Charm Wall in February 2017

Looking up at the Animal Charm Wall in February 2017

It may be early yet. (more…)

A Day on Coney

Tuesday, July 5th, 2016

Ra and I spent the Fourth of July wandering off-trail on Coney Mountain. Robin and I discovered this little mountain’s incredible scenery a couple years ago, and I’ve since brought some climbing buddies to explore its technical potential. We’ve been up the mountain this year already, hiking to the top with one of our daughters on a cloud-shrouded, damp day. This day’s foray was in some ways a make-up for our weather-blocked plans of that day, and also another stab at finding decent rock climbing there.

Robin making her way up pitch one of our Independence Day Route.

Robin making her way up pitch one of our Independence Day Route.

(more…)

Moxham Recon II

Friday, May 6th, 2016

Back again, and soon. Despite the long approach, we returned to Moxham Mountain for another climbing reconnaissance.

Mr. Hazard hanging out at the Lower Slab of Moxham Mountain

Mr. Hazard hanging out at the Lower Slab of Moxham Mountain

(more…)

Our First Moxham Ridge Expedition

Tuesday, April 26th, 2016
Tom belays on the lower trailside slab, with the Summit Dome in the background.

Tom belays on the lower trailside slab, with the Summit Dome in the background.

In ancient times (the early 1990s), I climbed once or twice on Moxham Dome, a large roadside slab near Minerva. As I would wind my way homeward, I always looked up to the summit dome and wondered if there was good climbing up there. Well, a few years ago, the DEC built a hiking trail to it. Mike P. and Tom L. headed up there shortly after it opened up, and told me it was fantastic. So we just had to put a posse together and give it a go… (more…)

Pilot Mountain NC

Monday, March 14th, 2016

Frigid Weather thwarts the sole climbing item of our trip to North Carolina

Looking out at the upland plateau from Pilot Mountain's ridge

Looking out at the upland plateau from Pilot Mountain’s ridge

A few years back, Ra and I made our first trip to North Carolina. With family now ensconced there, it is likely we will be visiting the state more frequently each year, so we figured it wise to get to know the climbing options available in the region. After visiting with our kin for a few days, we set off in search of vertical playgrounds. Our second stop placed us in the town of Pilot Mountain, near its namesake prominence, a location we hadn’t known of but had spotted from the highway. After spending the night in town, I’d garnered one significant fact: there is climbing on the mountain, but it is strictly verboten on the outstanding summit promontory itself. At the time, this was a big turn-off, enough to send us onward, looking elsewhere. We never even drove up the road to the upper ridge to glance at the permitted climbing area.

On this trip, we gave it a second glance. What a glance it was, revealing how very shortsighted we’d been. That main promontory still beckons – and it’s a shame climbing isn’t allowed there – but the scraps left us vertical crawlers is well worth the trip.

(more…)

Ragged Mountain Rerun

Thursday, February 25th, 2016
View of Ragged Mountain from the west.

View of Ragged Mountain from the west.

Last Spring, Tom, Robin, and I took a walk south of Route 73 to look at some open rock I’d spied with the help of now-ubiquitous Web-based satellite mapping systems; these particular ones on Ragged Mountain. There are several such labeled lumps of stone in the Adirondacks; this specific one lies along the Short-Swing Trail as it curls around a large swamp and the side of the ridge where I’d seen the crag from my virtual perch in LEO. That day, our exploration detoured onto Bear Mountain, a lovely summit to be sure, but a total derailment of my original objective. We did spot cliffs up along Ragged’s western ridge, but from a distance, too far to judge their potential climbing value. We were by then too tired to go up and look. With the near-total lack of snow, and fluctuating mercury this winter, I laid plans to remedy that lack during Presidents’ Week.

(more…)