Guide to Lower Measles Wall


The Measles Walls are a cluster of short cliffs about fifteen minutes’ walk east of the trailhead. Though by no means a major destination, these cliffs offer an easy approach, sport climbing, convenient TR set-up, shade in the summer, sunny climbing in early spring and late fall, protection from late season wind, and of course, tons of peculiar pockmarks.
I first named the entire vicinity “The Measles Wall”, but the scattered bits of cliff eventually needed better delineation. Thus, the Lower and Upper, with an “Over the” thrown in for humor’s sake. But two more have entered the books, and the nomenclature became a tad ludicrous. “Under the” and “Top’o’the” Measles Walls have joined the chorus of this area.
The Lower Measles Wall was the first of the lot to be climbed, starting with the obvious left-facing corner of Cracklosis way back in the dim 90’s. Routes here were generally free-soloed, with the exception of Hamburger Face (TR), until 2009, after an aborted attempt to climb what would become I Am Lesion ended in a desperate leap for the small beech tree. Too good to abandon and too rough on ropes to TR, bolts arrived on the scene that year.
The cliff starts out short, wet, and dirty, until one crosses the drainage ditch. Thereafter things get progressively cleaner, though most of the routes are still somewhat rough around the edges.

1. Hypoxia 5.4 R 25′ DIRTY
Once relatively clean, the moss has reclaimed much of this route.
Start: Just right of the skanky, leaf-filled drainage.
P1: Climb up the blunt arête right of a moss-filled crack and up slabby rock to a ledge.

2. Run for Rabies 5.6 R 30′
A bit rough, but if you stay on-route, the going isn’t bad. The temptation to stray off-route is strong, though.
Start: a rounded, left-facing corner about 8′ right of the drainage.
P1: Climb the corner to the crack under a “capstone” slab. Step right then left onto the slab and up it to the ledge.

A slimy left-facing corner lies between routes 2 and 3.

3. Scared for Life 5.8- X 40′
I was, too. Contrived, but interesting climbing, good practice for the sport routes around the corner.
Start: 5′ left of the obvious, clean left-facing corner (Cracklosis).
P1: Climb the face using pocks and smears and continue up the slab to join Cracklosis. The crack is off.

V1 5.7+ X 50′: Climb the slightly dirtier outside corner just right of the slimy corner.

4. Cracklosis 5.4 G 40′
The best trad route on the LMW; this can be used to introduce several climbing techniques.
Start: At the obvious, clean, left-facing corner just left of a large tree.
P1: Climb the corner to its top, step up on a flake and follow a crack up the slab to its end.

5. Hamburger Face 5.9+ TR 40′
A one-move wonder.
Start: the middle of the face right of Cracklosis, right of the tree.
P1: Climb up onto a small ledge, then step up and right before heading up left to the top of the block. Finish on the slab right of Cracklosis’ crack.

6. Measly Little Corner 5.3 G 40′
The start is awkward.
Start: At a flaring corner shortly after the cliff turns uphill.
P1: Climb up into the corner. After another move, step out onto the outside corner and continue up. Join the crack of Cracklosis.

7. Pox 5.10c Sport 35′
4′ right of Measly Little Corner.
P1: Follow a line of four bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

8. I Am Lesion 5.10a Sport 35′
A flying leap started it all.
Start: Right of a small beech tree 8′ right of Measly Little Corner.
P1: Climb up the face along a line of bolts.

9. Getcher Breakfast 5.10a Sport 35′
At a head-height hold 4′ left of the uppermost beech tree on the righthand face.
P1: Weave up the face, mostly staying right of the bolt line, to a single bolt at the top of the steeper bit, then traverse right to H1N1 or left to I Am Lesion.

10. H1N1 5.8 Sport 30′
All the rage in 2009, the FA year for this route.
Start: at the upper end of the clean face, just right of a small beech tree.
P1: Climb up and leftward to the second bolt, then step right and up past third bolt to anchors.

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