Guide to the “Over the Measles” Wall

Over the Measles Wall Climbing Routes  

This small chunk of cliff lies above the Lower Measles Wall, the first cliff one comes to when walking in from Crane Mountain’s trailhead. It is accessed by cutting off the BAW path and walking up along the left edge of the Lower Measles Wall, bringing one to the base of the cliff near the start of The Flu.
It’s a short cliff – The Flu has only about 12′ of steep rock before reaching low-angle slab – and the climbing options are limited. However, TR set-up is easy and, because the rock here lacks the plentiful divots common to the rest of the Measles Walls, it offers a nice change of pace. Moreover, the standout route of the area, Resistant Strain, is here.

1. The Flu 5.5 PG 25′
More a diversion than a destination.
Start: 15′ right of the cliff’s left end, the face has a shallow concavity, often with a wet spot down low.
P1: Climb up the concavity to the slab and angle right to belay.

2. Trickagnosis 5.7 PG 40′ *
Nice traverse moves; variations on this theme have been exhaustively explored.
Start: Just right of The Flu, at a small diagonal series of footholds leading right.
P1: Step up to reach the lower of two long horizontal cracks and hand-traverse right to the arête, then climb straight up to finish in a vertical crack.

V1 5.7 PG **: Begin at the cliff’s far left edge. Hand-traverse the upper of two horizontal cracks to the regular finish.

V2 5.7 PG *: Begin as usual, but climb up to second horizontal crack before traversing right.

V3 5.8 R: Begin 6′ right and below the start. A boulder move reaches the normal start of the route.

V4 5.10a **: Begin directly below the vertical crack, at a dished-out section of the wall leading to a thin, hollow flake. Climb up to and along this to join the standard route at its end.

3. Mixamotosis 5.8 X 45′ *
Originally free-soloed (with a wire brush in one hand!), this route offers delicate, committing traverse moves.
Start: 10′ left of the right edge of the main cliff, just left of an often-wet patch.
P1: Delicately climb up to an intermittent horizontal crack, then follow this left to an outside corner. Climb directly up its left side.

V1 5.7 R: An easier start – tho it does not avoid the unprotected finish – diverges from Resistant Strain.

4. Resistant Strain 5.11a TR 35′ **
One of the better routes at the Measles Walls.
Start: The righthand outside corner of the main cliff.
P1: Step up onto the arête and climb it through the bulge to the top.

5. Jungle Rot 5.10b TR 25′
But for its bad landing, this would be a good boulder problem.
Start: on the arête just right of the steep gully dividing this cliff.
P1: Climb the outside corner to the top.

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